Page 27 - LOTN Advent issue 57

FAITH AND CULTURE

distance from neighbouring islands as well.
The church has a round tower, which is believed to be unique
in Britain, and was 20 metres (66 feet) high, with a domed roof
and probably a bell. Today it is a little truncated, 15 metres
(49 feet) high. It has just one doorway, into the central nave.
The stone roof over the rectangular nave and square chancel
was removed in 1847 - maybe this was when services stopped
being held there. There was an upper story over the chancel. It
is in remarkable condition, and Historic Scotland are looking
after it well. It stands in a graveyard, and is easily accessible. It
is remarkable that this extremely well constructed church is still
withstanding the Orkney weather, 888 years after it was built.
Not so far away, and again, it cannot be missed as there is so
little natural growth of trees or shrubs, is a large, solid looking
monument. This has a plaque on it which reads:
“Erected by the Rector and Congregation of the Church of St
Magnus the Martyr, by London Bridge, and the Minister and
Congregation of St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall, to mark the
traditional spot where Earl Magnus was slain. A.D. c. 1116, and
to commemorate the Octocentenary of St Magnus Cathedral,
1937”.
The church in London has a large stained glass window
dedicated to Egilsay, showing the roofless church with its
tower and the monument. The church was actually built
before Magnus’ death, so may have been originally built to
commemorate a Roman Magnus.
A visit today to this enchanted island is inspiring. The inner
island ferry leaves Mainland from Tingwall, just north of
Kirkwall, and serves Rousay and Wyre islands before arriving
at Egilsay on the western side. As with all the islands, there is
a small building at the ferry terminal where you can shelter, One of the stained glass windows in the Church of St Magnus
and has “facilities”. It is easy walking to visit the church and the Martyr, London, features both St Magnus and the Egilsay
monument, and onwards to the east side to the sandy bays at church and monument
Maeness, where Magnus landed. The sand here is silver and very biscuit, for a donation in the honesty box, and providing they
fine, fine enough to be used to dry your ink at the time when clean up after themselves!
people used quill pens. The sea is transparent. The east side of The island walk is part of the St Magnus Way pilgrimage route
the island is a RSPB bird sanctuary too, and bird song, lapping (the main part is on Mainland) which was reinstated in 2017,
waves, and the beat of your heart, are all that you will hear. 900 years after Magnus’ slaying.
Roughly in the middle of the island is the old school. This is It is good to know that the early Catholic Christians who
the Egilsay Community Association Centre, maintained by the lived on these islands are remembered today.
island population of 16 people (according to their web site). It
is open for visitors to make them selves tea or coffee and have a

Fr Theophilus Verstraeten - the priest

who saved Lerwick from smallpox

the Eucharist in a chapel dedicated
BY HILDE BARDELL
to Saint Anne. It had been set up
r Theophilus Verstraeten, from Bottelaere in the year before by Father Stefan
Belgium, joined the North Pole Mission while he Djunkowsky, a Russian priest
was still a seminarian in the Diocese of Ghent. and member of the North Pole
FSoon after his ordination in 1859 he was sent to Mission who occasionally
assist another missionary in the Faroe Islands. Within visited Lerwick, and was in
a year, his superior transferred him to Shetland and he the basement of the lodberry
served the Catholic community here for eleven years (now Pete’s coffee shop) which
mainly serving Catholics from Ireland and Europe who in those days was reached
came to the islands for the fishing industry. from the beach. Later the land
Upon his arrival, Father Theophilus was able to celebrate was reclaimed and an extension,

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