Page 34 - LOTN Autumn Issue 54 2023
P. 34

FAITH AND CULTURE

                                                              Catholic church, but no cathedral. The summer residence
                                                              of the Bishops of Konstanz was Meersburg Castle which
                                                              remained the bishops’ primary residence until the beginning
                                                              of the 18th century when a new castle residence was built.
                                                               Meersburg is a delightful town to explore, and don’t
                                                              be surprised when a Zeppelin drones overhead. Count
                                                              Zeppelin was born in Konstanz and, as he developed his
                                                              ideas for airships, he needed land for a factory and airfield.
                                                              There was no space at Konstanz, so he was offered some
                                                              land at Friedrichshafen further down the lakeside. Zeppelin
                                                              trips are still offered from there today.
                                                               Returning to Konstanz, the cathedral saw many
                                                              improvements over the centuries, perhaps the largest being
                                                              the replacement of the Romanesque painted wooden
                                                              ceiling by a vaulted brick ceiling in 1637. The power and
                                                              status of the Bishop of Konstanz grew, until in 1821 the
                                                              bishopric, which was by then the largest in Germany, was
                                                              dissolved. In 1827 the bishop had to move to Freiburg in
                                                              Breisgau. This ended the 1200 years and 100 bishops who
                                                              had reigned in Konstanz.
                                                               However, the cathedral is still there. In 1955 Pope Pius Xll
                                                              raised its status to papal basilica minor. This ensured that it
                                                              would be protected and used. In 1962 a complete restoration
                                                              of the basilica was begun and completed around 2010. A
                                                              part of the restoration involved the installation of a carillon
                                                              of 12 new bells which were hung in the central tower.
                 Konstanz Cathedral towers over the city
                                                               Konstanz is a lovely place to explore, with lots of Catholic
        in the Gothic style.                                  interest, including St Stephan’s Church near the railway
          At that time Hugo von Hohenlandenberg was Bishop of  station. This was built around 1130 on the site of a church
        Konstanz from 1496 to 1529, and again from 1530 until his  from the Roman era. It contains an 18th century statue of
        death in 1532.                                        St Stephan, a pulpit from 1773, statues of the Apostles from
          In 1526 the tide of reformation was becoming too strong  the 18th century and an altar from 1863.
        to be ignored. The bishop left Konstanz and moved across   The railway station is shared with Swiss railways, whose
        the lake to Martinsburg, in Meersburg. In his absence radical  trains terminate here. The city is always busy, with no empty
        protestants who followed the Zurich reformer Huldrych  shops. There are always a lot of Swiss registered cars going
        Zwingli, destroyed all the artwork in the Cathedral.  about. This is because the Swiss can buy things here and
        They believed that churches should be totally bare and  receive the VAT back immediately, as can we, now that we
        unadorned with "false images". It was not until 1551 that the  are no longer in the EU! All the shops are organised to deal
        bishop felt safe enough to return to Konstanz.        with the paperwork. A good place for a bargain!
          Meersburg is just across the lake. To go there today is   The harbour is always busy too. Boats of all sizes operate
        straightforward. The city bus network includes Meersburg.  regular  timetabled  services  to  many  other  places  around
        The bus runs along the coast a little, then drives onto a  the lake. At the end of one pier is an impressive, massive
        waiting ferry.  These ferries shuttle to and fro every 15  statue, called  “Imperia”.  This statue is nine metres (30
        minutes.                                              feet) high, weighs 18 tonnes, is made of concrete and
          At Meersburg there is a very solid impressive looking  rotates every three minutes. It is dedicated to the Council
                                                              of Constance, but in a very controversial way.  “La Belle
                                                              Imperia” was a renowned Italian courtesan who lived 100
                                                              years after the Council but was used in a story by Balzac as a
                                                              lady who corrupted the hierarchy of the Church. The statue
                                                              has her hands held out at each side, on one sits a pope
                                                              (Martin V elected at the Council) and on the other Emperor
                                                              Sigismund who called the Council. She has them both in
                                                              her hands. The city council would not allow the erection of
                                                              this controversial statue, but at that time (1993) the railway
                                                              owned the harbour and as they did not object it was erected
                                                              there, on the end of the pier, and continues to be a bone of
                                                              contention.

                                                              To find out more about Konstanz, see www.konstanz-info.
                                                              com and for Meersburg go to www.meersburg.de
             Meersburg Castle, the bishops' primary residence

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